When I first visited Umbria  years ago and was told we were going to have a special local dish with truffles, I was expecting chocolate! It was then that I learned the true meaning of “black gold”…

Fast forward and the opportunity to actually go on a truffle hunt in Umbria…wow! What a fabulous experience! Won’t you come along?

Ready for our “hunting expedition”, we pile into the van. Up, up, up we go high into the lush green hills above Spoleto.

No wonder Umbria is called the “green heart” of Italy. As we climb higher, we pass grazing sheep and goats and stop to admire the “as far as the eye can see” view before us…

We climb even higher…to the very top of Mount Fionchi, 13 km from Spoleto. Surrounded by the gentle Umbrian hills we reach our destination which is literally at the end of the road.

Agriturismo Bartoli, a family-owned working farm since 1840, was originally a sheep farm and part of a community where 60-70 families lived. (Today there are only about 9.) In 1984, in an effort to combine tradition and business, the Bartoli family got the idea to create Bartoli Farm and Agriturismo (the first licensed in Italy) with 12 guest rooms.

The main house is warm and welcoming with family photos and memorabilia lining the walls and shelves. We are greeted by Marcella, the lady of the house and offered a  cappuccino freshly brewed by Luca.

Click on any photo for a virtual tour!

Before we set off …

What’s a truffle? No, we’re not talking about the chocolate truffle! This truffle is a fungus that naturally grows from spores in the ground around oak trees in specific favorable regions. Given the proper climate and conditions, it will naturally reproduce.

Hundreds of years ago truffle hunters found truffles where the mosca (flies) landed. Then pigs were used to ferret out the truffles but they were a bit greedy and would eat and or destroy the truffle. Today well-trained dogs are used.

Off we go… A man of many talents, Luca hands us our walking sticks and introduces us to Moretta and Fanny. Our local guide, Julie, serves as translator as we are educated about truffles and the training of truffle hunting dogs.

We are instructed not to play with or distract the dogs as they are working now. Then we begin our “hunt” with comfortable shoes, a warm jacket and a walking stick as our only gear.

Click on any photo for a virtual tour!

Truffle hunting dogs, Moretta (dark and 10 years old) and Fanny (dark brown and 6 years old), eager for treats, are anxious to dash off.

We learn that it can take a good 10 years to train the dogs. Training starts with 2-3 months of playing with a ball and teaching them to retrieve. They are rewarded with a treat (in this case, special treats with no preservatives). Once they have mastered this, they are taught to retrieve a truffle. Graduating, they then go out with another well-trained truffle hunter. “Master” & “student” work as a team and during the season  they are taken on daily early morning walks lasting approximately 1-1/4 hours.

Truffle hunting dogs are extremely valuable and are never light colored since, in an area known to have truffles, a light colored dog is easily spotted and can be stolen.

Click on any photo for a virtual walk!

Click Here for a short Video of Luca, Julie and Morella & Fanny (Umbria – Truffle Hunting)

Truffles! The hunt is on! The dogs are off, scurrying, dashing and darting from tree to tree, sniffing, digging…sometimes retrieving truffles… But wait a minute, sometimes, eager for treats, they will also sniff out and retrieve false truffles.

What’s a false truffle? Well, it, too, is a fungus that smells like a truffle and tastes like a truffle but it is NOT a truffle. However, false truffles are often used in low grade foodstuffs (e.g., oils, pastes, etc.) advertised as including truffles. Luca collects the impostors and, putting them in a separate pocket, will later destroy so that the dogs will not continue to find them.

Black gold! After finding the truffle, the dogs have been trained to retrieve them immediately so as not to damage the surface and therefore degrade their value. Black truffles can fetch up to 50euros per gram.

Truffle seasons are summer/fall (May to end of September/October) and winter (end of December through January).

Time to head back…  While we were busy hunting (and enjoying the beautiful countryside), Marcella, her daughter Camilla and the kitchen staff were busy in the kitchen preparing a sumptuous homemade lunch for the family, farm workers, other guests and ourselves.

We are welcomed to the family table by our host, Felicino, who sits at the head of the table as we are served course after delicious course. Toasting with local wines, he holds court (and impresses us all with the revelation that he can recite Dante’s Divine Comedy from memory).

Luca, a man of many talents, has now taken on the responsibility of serving our antipasti (including delicious homemade pecorino cheese), pasta with a delicate pomodoro sauce, grilled miaile (pork) with truffle and truffle oil (of course!), coleslaw and a sweet pull-apart pizza (pizza a strappo) for dessert. Delizioso!

It’s time to express our thanks and depart. We have enjoyed an incredibly special day and unforgettable experience today in Italy’s green heart…

Victoria’s Tip: I learned something about truffles that I want to share with you…

How do you know you’re getting “real” truffles? The only way is to buy the whole truffles in a jar. They should be cleaned with a brush and plain water. You can make your own oil by crushing and covering in a jar with oil to preserve and which can beopened in 15 days. You can also shave fresh truffles and put in freezer bags and thaw when ready to use.

Don’t be fooled by the impostors. Buy the real thing and support hardworking truffle hunters like Morella and Fanny!

Visit the Agriturismo Bartoli website: www.agriturismobartoli.com

Although I do not currently have another Umbria Tour scheduled at this time, if you and five of your friends would love to experience Umbria, please contact me and we can create a customized itinerary just for you!