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Visiting Palazzo Davanzati has been on my list for a very long time. Like many other lesser known museums the visiting hours are quite restricted. In fact Palazzo Davanzati, as well all museums, closed on the exact date that I had scheduled my long-awaited visit. Alas, I had to wait again but it was certainly worth it.
Some museums feel like you’re actually visiting someone, someone you might know…stepping into their everyday life. So, there can be a sense of intimacy. I felt that when I visited Monet’s home in Giverny, Mark Twain’s in Connecticut, a plantation in Louisiana…and so many others. You feel their presence, as if you’ve been invited, and that’s exactly how you feel when you start up the stairs and enter the first grand room in Palazzo Davanzati…
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There are lots (and I do mean lots!) of impressive Palazzi (plural of Palazzo) of wealthy and iinfluential families at every turn in historical Florence. You have those on a grand scale such as Palazzo Pitti with over 60 rooms, and then you have Palazzo Riccardi Medici, Palazzo Vecchio, and on and on…but Palazzo Davanzati is in a different category. It is almost “modest” compared to the grand palaces but it is unique in that it is a true representation of the lifestyle of a wealthy Renaissance Florentine family.
♦ There’s a Story, Of Course…
Palazzo Davanzati’s story stretches from medieval to Renaissance life, from a noble palace to a museum. In fact, over the centuries Palazzo Davanzati and the surrounding medieval buildings experienced periods of major structural changes. Almost demolished, it has undergone numerous renovations and restorations.
Palazzo Davanzati is not like your typical museum or palazzo. It’s a noble but not a royal palace and, as it is described, is a Museum of the Historic Florentine House (Museo della Casa Fiorentina Antica). It actually feels like you are visiting a private residence when the family has stepped out or are on vacation in the country…
The story is chronicled in an excellent introductory video presentation included with admission. It describes the history of the Palazzo from its construction in the 1300’s to today. Yes, the 1300’s! The “then to now” footage and photos are fascinating and give us to richer appreciation of the Palazzo. You will also see how the historical layouts have changed over the centuries as well.
The first owners were the Davizzi, a wealthy family of merchants and bankers, who purchased the property in the 1300’s. Eventually, in 1578, it was purchased by the Davanzati family and it still bears their name as well as the Davanzati’s large family crest on the façade.The Davanzati inhabited the palazzo until the last heir died in 1838.
Ultimately it was purchased in 1904 by Elia Volpi, an antiquarian. In 1910, he established it as the Museo della Casa Fiorentina Antica. Volpi furnished the Palazzo in his vision of a noble Renaissance with antiques and collectibles that were “most faithful and interesting testimonies of the lifestyle of Renaissance Florence”.
The next half century however is a dramatic tale of vacillating fortunes, bankruptcies, sales and purchases until finally, in 1951, it was purchased by the state. It was reopened in 1956 after being re-furnished in similar historical style/layouts and converted into a museum. Today, the furnishings are not original but they are precious, authentic antiques and collectibles of the period, all resulting in an extremely interesting and rare peek at medieval and Renaissance life.
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♦ Let’s Visit, Shall We?
Now the entrance, at one time the three large arched openings were doors facing the street. Walking into the courtyard and open atrium, you’ll find the family tree showing families and coats of arms related to the Davanzati family and you can watch the informative introductory video presentation.
The open courtyard allowed for fresh air and sunlight. You can also see the holes in the slightly sloping floor which allowed for rain water to drain and be collected into the cistern below.
From the Courtyard looking up and then from the top floor looking down, there are almost dizzying views of the different levels…
The floor plan and layout is the same on all three floors (plus a loggia that is currently closed to visitors). To visit the rest of the Palazzo, we need to climb stairs, lots of stairs!
Let’s begin, shall we?
• Sala Madornale or “Great Hall”
The audience or meeting rooms feature terra cotta floors (literally “cooked earth”) and richly decorated carved wood ceilings. Notice that the “glass” windows, with handsome wooden shutters, are fashioned from the bottom of bottles.
↓↓ CLICK Here for the MOVIE ↓↓
->> Sala Madornale MOVIE <<-
A feature that I found interesting was the placement of hooks around the entire perimeter of the walls where runners – tapestries or leather – would be hung for decor and provide warmth in the cold months.
↓↓ CLICK HERE for a Video of a Hanging Tapestry ↓↓
->> Sala Madornale tapestry – MOVIE <<-
Beautifully appointed decor of the period…
Also, there is a strategically placed “dumb waiter” designed to safely hoist water to all of the floors.
• Sala dei Pappagalli (Room of the Parrots)
The Parrot Room has a charming if not whimsical motif featuring parrots in a repeating pattern beneath a border representing a faux balcony with columns and verdant foliage including trees, (since there were no actual gardens in the Palazzo), and vases of flowers.
A large fireplace featuring the Davizzi coat of arms dominates one side.
Among the furnishings is an antique cabinet with a lovely display of majolica from Montelupo.
• Camera della Chatelain di Vergy (Bedroom of Lady of Vergli)
The Landlady’s Bedroom is rich with decorative frescoes including, around the upper border, the story of the Lady of Vergli, well-known and popular at the time. (Spoiler alert: it does not have a happy ending!)
The furnishings and linens would be those typical of the time. Elaborately decorated walls including coats of arms and the Florentine giglio (lily) as well as a lovely frescoed niche for private devotion.
This and the other bedrooms have creature comforts enjoyed by the noble class including a small ensuite bathroom with indoor plumbing or “agiamenti” (toilets), and sometimes with a tub – luxurious rarities!
• Camera delle Impannate
Faux tapestry motifs including the giglio of Florence with charming decorative borders featuring lovely trees, floral designs and urns decorate this lovely room. The fireplace in the corner displays the Davizzi and other family coats of arms.
↓↓ CLICK HERE for MOVIE ↓↓
->> Camera delle Impannate Bedroom MOVIE <<-
A lovely niche with madonna and child for private devotion has decorative shutters and, tucked into the corner, we find another smaller ensuite bathroom.
• The Cucina
The kitchen was situated on the upper floor in case of fire and to keep odors from permeating the household.
The large fireplace and collection of kitchen utensils such as the cauldrons, dough kneaders, bellows, etc. typical at the time add to the authenticity of the cucina.
↓↓ CLICK HERE for Cucina Movie ↓↓
->> Cucina Movie <<-
And what is this on the walls? Scribbling? It’s graffiti and it is original! The explanation given to me was that paper was so expensive and so the walls were often used as a sort of “blackboard”.
The most fascinating to me is the graffiti which notes the assassination of Guiliano de’Medici (1478) – an event that everyone would have heard and talked about!
And…
Another room, the Studiolo, was a smaller private study typically reserved for the master of the house.
I love ceramics and in several of the rooms are lovely collections of majolica and other glazed ceramics – platters, plates, jugs, salt cellars and charming 17th century hand warmers in the shape of a shoe!
There is also a worthwhile Embroidery (Ricamo) Collection housed here but that deserves a separate post at a separate time!
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♦ Resources: Museums in Florence
♦ I also highly recommend Art Historian Elaine Ruffalo’s outstanding virtual encounters including an excellent 2-part series about the Renaissance Life in Florence
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More Museums! Yes, I ♥ Museums!
→ Please CLICK HERE for more about “off the beaten track” and well-known museums!
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Wouldn’t you love to visit this exquisite museum and so many of the other sites of Florence…Tuscany…Italy???
Of course you would! And when you are able and ready, we are HERE for you!
Si, ready to help YOU plan your fabulous trip to Italia!
