♦ ♦ ♦

As is so often the case, Debora and I met via social media long before I finally got to spend the day with her in Arezzo. She had extended an invitation for me to visit Arezzo and I very much wanted to return (I had only been there once many years ago) and I was especially looking forward to revisiting with Debora as my guide.

The whole COVID situation prevented any travel, even within the region of Tuscany, for months and, even when it was allowed, knowing it could change every week made it hard to make a plan.

In January, by chance, she was visiting Florence for a day with a friend and we were at least able to meet and enjoy have an aperitivo together. Promises were made to visit whenever circumstances permitted…

And finally, in June, we were able to set a date!

♦ ♦ ♦

Arezzo is a city and comune in Italy and the capital of the province of the same name located in the region of Tuscany. It’s a pleasant one-hour train ride away from Florence. Despite its rich history and many notable monuments, churches, and museums, it’s often overshadowed by its well-known neighbor, Cortona, and doesn’t always make the “must visit” list for tourists. And it definitely should!

Arezzo is definitely deserving of (at least!) a day trip! The train station is conveniently located and its attractive and lovely thoroughfares (pedestrian only) make exploring a pleasure.

♦ “Life is Beautiful” in Arezzo!
Arezzo is tasteful, stylish, and has a very rich history with Etruscan roots. Known for its affluence, there is definitely an ambiance of sophistication here. (In fact, until recently, known as the city of gold, Arezzo produced up to one-third of all Italy’s gold jewelry.)

Debora met me at the station and we started our day trip together at Piazza Guido Monaco. We pause to take our selfie and Debora shares the noteworthy legacy of Guido Monaco. Thanks to Guido d’Arezzo, we have music! He created the music note in the school of Piona Hill.

Via Corso Italia takes us through the heart of Arezzo. I’m easily distracted by the elegant boutiques, cafès, trattorie and appealing shops with tempting displays of typical local products.

We decide to enjoy un caffè at “Sugar Please” which happens to have a fabulous “glass floor” revealing Roman mosaics with dolphins and ducks (a Roman bath perhaps?). Caffeinated, we headed toward the Duomo, the Cathedral of Saint Peter and Donato, which happens to be the located at the highest point of the city.

Along the way, we pause as Debora points out various impressive medieval buildings and historic points…

…Including the façade of La Pieve di Santa Maria Parish Church built between 9th and 11th centuries.

Adorned with coats of arms on the façade the Palazzo Pretoria is also on Corso Italia.The heraldic shields represent the major leaders who ruled Arezzo. This building is now the library.

At the very top is the Medici Fortress and a park (which was closed). The prominent marble statue of Ferdinando I dei Medici reminds us that, indeed the Medici were here. Commissioned by the Municipality of Arezzo in 1591, the sculpture by Francavilla and Giambologna commemorates the Grand Duke and pays tribute to him for having reclaimed the area and having made Arezzo the città di passo.

Among other well known notable historic figures is Giorgio Vasari. Vasari, a famous artist, painter, architect, engineer, writer, and historian, was born here and you can visit Casa Vasari.

And, yes, Arezzo was the film location for “La Vita è Bella” (“Life is Beautiful”), the popular 1997 award winning film starring Academy Award winner, Roberto Benigni.

♦ The Patron Saint Who Lost His Head…

Saint Donatus of Arezzo is the patron saint of Arezzo, and considered a bishop of the city. The legend and ultimate martyrdom of Saint Donatus (San Donato) is a long and involved tale which, unfortunately includes his beheading. Among the miracles that the devotional legend attributes to him, the most famous is that of the chalice in the fourth century. During a celebration of Mass the pagans entered the temple and shattered the glass chalice. Donato picked up the shards and put them back together but one was missing. However, when he poured wine into the chalice and served it to the faithful, no wine would leak from the bottom. In amazement, the 79 pagans converted to Christianity. Shortly thereafter, he was arrested and beheaded.

Dedicated to Saint Donatus, the Cathedral of Saint Donatus is impressive and quite majestic! Started in 1278, it wasn’t finished with the new Gothic facade until 1900-1914.

The Cathedral of Saint Donatus…

Located in the presbytery, Saint Donatus’s elaborate tomb in marble was once encrusted with precious stones which were taken by the French during an invasion in the 18th century under the command of Napoleon.

However his skull is located in the Pieve in a 14th century richly decorated silver reliquary. Poor Saint Donatus, his body and head are still separated!

I can’t attest to the legend but there’s no denying the splendid Andrea della Robbia terracottas, the moving fresco by della Francesca and exquisite stained glass windows by de Marcillat all add to the resplendent tribute to the patron saint.

Madonna del Coforto (Madonna of Comfort)…

For art lovers: Piero della Francesca’s cycle of frescoes at the San Francesco church is a main attraction which, much to my disappointment, was closed.

One never knows what will be open or closed, especially with COVID, but it’s always a worth another visit. (Remember: most churches close in the afternoons so time your visits!).

♦ Piazza Grande – the Heart of Arezzo
Our stroll took us back down to Arezzo’s splendid Piazza Grande.

Here you’ll find the Arezzo Tourist Office which has a wide selection of extremely helpful information, maps and souvenirs about Arezzo and the surrounding commune.

Lined with a handsome loggia on one side, the Logge Vasari, coupled with an ideal view of the Piazza, are numerous inviting dining choices.

We decided that this was the perfect place to enjoy lunch together and, after making our choice, Ristorante “Logge Vasari”, we enjoyed a lovely pranzo and chat.

Piazza Grande is also the site of the Saracen Joust, Giostra del Saracino, an annual medieval re-enactment of a “knightly competition”. Jousters from the four districts of the city (Porta del Foro, Porta Santo Spirito, Porta Sant’Andrea and Porta Crucifera) challenge each other by launching at full speed to mark (with the tip of the spear) the poster held by the Buratto, a spring-loaded metal puppet. Music and colors add to the festivities of the competition.

Known for its antique shops, the piazza and side streets are lined with inviting shops. Arezzo is also well known for its Antiques Fair, held the first Sunday of every month and the Saturday just before it. Dealers come from all over Italy lining the Piazza and side streets with about 400 stalls selling all kinds of antiques and collectibles.

As we make our way back toward the station, I’m captivated by the interesting shops and their unusual entries/portals.

♦ In Summary…
There’s so much more to Arezzo and its rich legacy! My visit is ending but doubtless I’ll return to visit Debora and Arezzo again…and you should definitely put a visit on your list!

♦ ♦ ♦

♦ Resources

♦ Your Guide in Arezzo!
Debora Bresciani, Travel Guide
Debora offers a comprehensive and fascinating lineup of tours and experiences in and around Arezzo.
Travel with Debora
info@travelwithdebora.it
deboraresciani@virgilio.it
+39 329 0957175

♦ Tourist Information:
Infopoint Discover Arezzo
10:30 – 16:30
infopoint@discoverarezzo.com
https://www.discoverarezzo.com/en/
Via Giorgio Vasari, 13
+39 0575 377468

♦ ♦ ♦

Brush up on Italy Travel Tips with my book:
Victoria’s Travel TipZ Italian Style

♥ Read About Other Locals I Have Loved Learning With!

♦ ♦ ♦

Planning YOUR trip to Italy? With expert planning advice from my Friends of Victoria, we can help you a little or a lot!