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One of the reasons I chose Florence was its proximity and accessibility to so many fabulous destinations! Sometimes (actually often!) I have to “pinch myself” and remember that I’m only a short train ride away from places I’ve been wanting to visit and re-visit …like nearby Lucca!
I have been to Lucca before but only for all too brief visits and I definitely wanted to dive a little deeper. So, despite summer heat, in late July I decided to go and rather than a day trip, I planned a two night, three day stay.
I knew a little and remembered it as a charming medieval town but, as is my custom, I researched, made notes and looked forward to spending a leisurely three days exploring her charming streets and visiting magnificent cathedrals, the iconic anfiteatro, casa di Puccini, tempting local eateries and boutiques, maybe walking or wheeling on “the wall”…and delightful social time with fellow bloggers and local ex-pats!
And, as it turned out, I did it all!
♦ A Few Facts about Lucca
Located in the region of Tuscany, Lucca, with a population of approximately 90,000, is located on the Serchio River and is best known for its surrounding and quite beautiful 16th and 17th century Renaissance walls, referred to as “le mura”. Originally constructed for protection, the ramparts now encircle the historic center and are a lovely and quite popular tree-lined “ pedestrian promenade” ideal for walks, cycling, sitting and chatting with a friend or just enjoying “la dolce far niente”.
♦ Exploring Lucca…
Coming from the train station, you are immediately confronted with Lucca’s famous wall, “mura storiche”! Wall is a bit of an understatement…
This massive and quite impressive rampart encircles the old town of Lucca and, in order to access the old town of Lucca, you must enter through one of the six gates. The gate closest to the train station is Porta San Pietro.
My B&B was conveniently located and, after getting my bearings with a local map, I found Lucca extremely easy to explore on foot especially because the historic center, free of cars, is pedestrian friendly. (A friendly warning: bicycles are a very popular mode of transportation so, be sure to look in all directions!)
I did have some plans but, as is also my custom, I keep my time flexible and open to serendipities and spontaneous discoveries. And walking around, I was reminded that Lucca is very appealing and photogenic .
♦ Join me, won’t you?
My first “date” was a lovely lunch with my fellow Italy blogger and friend, Debra Kolkka, who lives part-time in nearby Bagni di Lucca and has been sharing/writing about Italy for years. In fact, the last time I was in Lucca, it was with Debra…six years ago?! My, how time flies! Great to catch up! (Sorry, no photos!)
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-> Before I take along to the iconic sites, let’s take a look at a few of the tempting shops… (Wait for the slideshow!)
-> And, one of my favorite things to photograph are doors, windows, details and…yes, cats! (Wait for the slideshow, please!)
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Now let’s do some sightseeing, shall we??
♦ Piazza del Anfiteatro: The Roman Amphiteatre ♦
At the heart of Lucca’s historic center is the Piazza del Anfiteatro…
“This .. oval space surrounded by multi-storied buildings was once the interior of Lucca’s Roman arena, and the buildings follow the footprint of its massive stone walls, having been built into its remains. The Roman amphitheater was built in the second century BC and was largely destroyed during the barbarian invasions; its remains now lie several meters below street level. During the Middle Ages, houses were built on the walls of the superstructure, preserving the oval outline of the arena.” – Planetware
Lined with cafés and shops, it’s a popular place to enjoy some refreshment, dine, look for a few souvenirs or gifts, (and great for people watching, too)!
On the exterior, if you look closely, you’ll see some unusual filled-in arches in the ancient stonework of the converted buildings…
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♦ Sacred Spaces ♦
♦ Duomo – Cattedrale di San Martin, Cathedral of St. Martin
Piazza San Martino
Lucca’s splendid and richly decorated cathedral was rebuilt in the 13th century and, as is often the case, from an earlier church. As you enter, admire the grand portico decorated by Lombard artisans and four scenes from the life of San Martino (carved by Nicola Pisano) in the main doorway.
Marvelous details…
Inside is the famous early 13th-century stone carving depicting San Martino and the beggar, regarded as one of Lucca’s finest examples of Romanesque sculpture.
Considered the greatest among the many treasures in the cathedral is the Volto Santo, the Holy Face of Lucca, an effigy of Christ on the Cross reputedly carved by Nicodemus. Read more about the legend here.
Other highlights of the richly endowed 14th- to 15th-century interior…
->Monument to Ilaria del Carretto…(please wait for slideshow)
The cathedral museum has other treasures, such as medieval hymnals and intricate gold work, including a crucifix by Pisani.
♦ Chiesa di San Michele in Foro (Church of Saint Michael in the Forum )
Piazza San Michele
As with many cathedrals, the church of Saint Michael (San Michele) was built on the site of the Roman forum between the 12th and 14th centuries.
Larger than life, Archangel Michael towers over the stunning façade dominating the piazza, aptly named after him.
The intricate and exquisitely carved and inlaid marble designs and detail on layers of pillars are absolutely magnificent.
The Romanesque interior has been preserved and among the many masterworks are the Andrea Della Robbia terracotta “Madonna and Child” and the Filippo Lippi 15th century painted panel depicting Saints Roch, Sebastian, Jerome, and Helen.
♦ Basilica di San Frediano (Church of Saint Frediano)
Piazza San Frediano
The Church of San Frediano, dedicated to a sixth-century Bishop of Lucca, was built between 1112 and 1147.
The lower part of the façade is unpretentious but as you look up, towering over you, is a striking mosaic of Christ flanked by two angels with the 12 Apostles below.
In the first chapel on the right is a very beautiful mid 12th-century font that was broken up in the 18th century and put together again in 1952. Above is the marvelous glazed terracotta lunette, “Annunciation”, by the Robbiana School.
The fourth chapel on the left, the Cappella Trenta (1413), has a richly decorated Gothic marble polyptych with 15th-century bas-reliefs by Iácopo della Quercia, Madonna and Child with Saints.
-> More glorious masterworks…(please wait for the slideshow)
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♦ Casa di Puccini Museo ♦
Piazza Cittadella
If there’s a “favorite son” in Lucca, it most definitely has to be the celebrated composer, Giacomo Puccini. You can hardly turn a corner without some kind of reference to him or one of his famous operas!
Born on December 22, 1858, his birth house is now a wonderful museum. It’s hard to miss inasmuch as a handsome statue of Puccini is located in the piazzetta just in front and, undoubtedly, a visit to the museum is definitely worthwhile.
->Please wait for the slideshow…
It’s very well-curated and a very interesting and intimate look at the great composer via personal mementos of his life and work.
-> Please wait for the slideshow…
As you visit the beautifully decorated and furnished rooms, there are original musical scores, letters, photos, costumes, opera programs, memorabilia of tributes, sculptures and some of his personal clothing (he was quite the dresser!).
Celebrated and honored in life and in death…
Some of fabulous costumes from his many famous operas (e.g. Tosca, La Bohême, Turandot, Madama Butterfly) are beautifully displayed.
-> Please wait for the sideshow and photos of some of the beautiful costumes…
The “showstopper” has to be this incredible costume from “Turandot”!
->Wait for more photos of this stunning costume…
There’s an excellent gift shop filled with all things Puccini from posters and books to CD’s and even jewelry designs based on his operas!
Puccini and references to his operas are found just about everywhere in Lucca (e.g., Manon Lescault Trattoria and Cafe Turandot). And, of course, there are Puccini related recitals, concerts, festivals and events virtually every day! What more could an opera fan ask for?
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♦ And (of Course!) Enjoying a Spritz, Prosecco time, Wine Tasting and MORE! ♦
Lucca is replete with inviting cafés, enotecas, and trattorias with tempting local fare at reasonable prices.
Tasty croissants and shakeratos with Ilene and Gary at Café Turandot…
A leisurely spritz and people watching in the Anfiteatro…
And more Prosecco with Ilene before and joining Gary and her for a fabulous wine tasting and charcuterie at Vinarkia della Pavona with owners, Nicola and Rebecca.
Local Lucchese wines and tasty specialties, good company and lively conversation.. all the perfect recipe for a perfect evening!
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♦ Last but Not Least…Wheeling on the Wall! ♦
A “must do” in Lucca is to “do the wall”! Bicycling is a very popular mode as is walking. It was definitely on my list but, sorry, I don’t do two-wheels!
And it was just going to be a bit toasty for a walk but thanks to my friends, Ilene and Gary, another means of transport was the perfect option!
So, nice and early-ish we rented a “surrey” and off we went for a splendid giro around the wall!
-> Check out our freewheeling ride on the ramparts (slideshow)…
Wall Facts: The wall or le mura is 4.195 kilometers long with eleven bastions and six gates. The walls (12 meters high and 30 meters thick at the base) were built by Flemish engineers between 1504 and 1645 to protect the town. Between 1823 and 1832, Maria Luigia of Bourbon (the sister of Napoleon, to whom he had given Lucca as part of the Duchy of Parma) had the old fortifications converted into a public garden.
♦ Next Time (When It’s Cooler)!
But, then again, there’s always another reason to visit isn’t there?
- Guinigi Tower and Torre delle Oro
I’ve climbed Guinigi (it’s the tower with the oaks growing on top) and didn’t feel the need to repeat in the heat. Maybe next time and I’ll share the views! - Revisit Paolo Cresci Museum (for the History of Italian Emigration):Hopefully it will be open, it’s a poignant reminder of the hopes and sacrifices made by emigrants (including my grandparents who emigrated from villages very close to Lucca).
- Get to a Puccini event…
I had such a great visit! Where to next? Stay in touch!
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♦ What’s on YOUR List the Next Time YOU Visit Italy? ♦
2022 is looking VERY promising and why not re-ignite those dreams of enjoying bella Italia?!
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♦ More PostcardZ from Tuscany!
♦ Please visit my friends: Ilene and Gary on Our Italian Journey and Debra on Bagni di Lucca and Beyond,
♦ MORE! Over 450 Italy Travel TipZ in my book, Victoria’s Travel TipZ Italian Style – Paperback or Kindle on Amazon!
4 thoughts on “Join Me on My Side Trip to Charming Lucca!”
Wow…you are really covering a lot of territory! Lucca is great! We stayed up in the hills somewhere in ’08. I had the best nights sleep that first night there!!! Loved wandering around Lucca. Have a great time!
Phyllis & Joe,
As I wrote in my post, it’s easy to forget how close so many charming cities and villages are to Florence! (One of the reasons
I chose it.)
It’s also such a pleasure to spend time in each place, really immersing, but also taking my time knowing I can return.
Had a lovely visit as I’m sure you saw in the post!
V.
Love the Lucca post! Can’t wait to get back to Italy!
Wonderful Kathy! Thank you for taking the time to read and comment here.
As you know, there is so much to see and enjoy in Italy!
Looking forward to staying in touch,
Victoria
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