Ravenna, aptly called the City of Mosaics, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. If it isn’t on your “wish list” of places to visit, perhaps you will be inspired to add it after reading the rest of this post!?
Ravenna is definitely a doable day trip from Florence. By train, you can connect through Bologna. Depending on the time between trains (try to allow at least 15-20 minutes since Bologna Centrale Train Station is HUGE!), it’s a total of approximately 2+ hours travel time.
Ravenna’s train station is conveniently located walking distance to the historical center and Ravenna’s main piazzas (e.g., Piazza del Popolo).
I suggest that you allow at least three (3) hours to visit all five of the Diocesan monuments on the Ravena Mosaici itinerary. You will also want to allow some meandering time to explore. You don’t want to rush since Ravenna is quite charming with plenty of attractive shops and cafés to enjoy a leisurely libation, snack or lunch.
♦ Ravenna Mosaici ♦
Sponsored by the Opera di Religion della Diocese di Ravenna, you can purchase a ticket for entrance into the five (5) principal sites at any of the locations. Arriving by train, the easiest starting point is the Basilica di Sant’Apollinare Nuovo (which is about a 10-15 minute walk from the train station).
Tickets are only 12.50 euros per person and they allow entrance into all of the sites. Each visit is “timed” and your ticket will detail the time frame and time allowed for each visit. You have plenty of time to get from site to site and to fully immerse in the splendid beauty of each.
(Note: Your ticket is valid for 7 days if you prefer to spread your visit over several days. However, note that you are allowed only one admission per monument.)
♦ Before You Go – For a Deeper Experience…
Once I decided on my day to visit, I spent time learning a little about the history of Ravenna and these magnificent mosaics. Having seen the Byzantine mosaic masterpieces in the Palatine Chapel (Cappella Palatina) in Palermo and the Monreale Cathedral (Cathedral di Monreale) nearby, as well as the Basilica of San Marco in Venice, I was very much looking forward to visiting Ravenna.
◊ What is a mosaic? ◊
A mosaic is a pattern or image made of small regular or irregular pieces of colored stone, glass or ceramic, held in place by plaster/mortar, and covering a surface. Mosaic pieces are called tesserae. During the Byzantine period, craftsmen expanded the materials to include gold leaf and precious stones.
A bit of history (covering over 15 centuries!) and details about the subject matter, symbolism, iconography and meaning of each was invaluable. It provided me with a basic knowledge and familiarity with what I was going to experience.
I highly recommend taking the time beforehand to view the following which provide excellent overviews and introductions to the history of Ravenna and the meaning of the mosaics (plus “close ups” which better prepare you for your visit).
Start here on the official site and you will find s wealth of information:
https://www.ravennamosaici.it/en/
Google Italy Ravenna Mosaics for a wide selection of YouTube videos. Suggested:
Smart History (English)
Grand Tour Project (Italian)
(Don’t be put off if many are in Italian – the videos speak for themselves!)
My appreciation was greatly enriched and enhanced…but, no doubt, to actually see these 5th and 6th century masterpieces is simply indescribable!
The splendor and vibrancy of the mosaics along with the incredible richness and extraordinary detail is dazzling. Every image and decorative design is symbolic and has meaning (usually religious).
It’s often difficult to know where to look first, there is just so much to take in! The exceptional workmanship: shimmering, brilliant, spectacular!
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♦ Let’s Begin Our Visit, Shall We?
◊ First the Basilica di San Apollinare Nuovo, originally built between the late 5th and early 6th century.
Over the centuries it was rededicated and ultimately to the first bishop of Ravenna, St. Apollinaris.
The central nave includes scenes from the life of Christ, the procession of the 26 martyrs on one wall (led by St. Martin) and 22 holy virgins preceded by the three Magi on the opposite (see below).
The figures are almost life size and the meticulous detail and marvelous processions are incredible!
◊ My next visit was to the Mausoleo di Galla Placidia – a dazzling jewel box that is simply breathtaking.
The unassuming exterior belies the treasure within…from floor to ceiling, every surface is decorated in brilliant detail.
Whether or not it was actually intended to be the burial place of Galla Placidia is now in question but there is no doubt that this intimate and lavishly decorated monument is beyond description.
◊ The Basilica di San Vitale, literally “next door” to the Mausoleo, was built in 525 and it, too, is truly extraordinary!
Testimony to the high level of workmanship, the exquisite decorative motif is breathtaking.
Every surface and architectural detail is superb artisanship. It’s hard to find superlatives to describe this magnitude of beauty.
Truly, you are left speechless (at least, I was!) At this point, I had to take a break! It’s impossible, at least for me, to put into words personal impressions and emotions evoked in the presence of so much beauty… I’ll leave you to your own experience!
In any case, for me it was perfect timing for a light lunch and there are lots of cafés nearby. There are also tempting shops to browse and perhaps find a few mementos of your visit. In addition, there are the excellent book/gift shops conveniently located at several of the sites. They all have an excellent selection of interesting and informative books, postcards, souvenirs, etc.
Now, onto the next sites, the Battistero Neoniano and, next door, the Museo Cappella Arciescovile e Cappella di Sant’Andrea.
◊ The octagonal Battistero Neoniano with the marble basin in the center features an evocative ceiling depicting the baptism of Christ with the 12 Apostles. Other iconography depicts the Old Testament.
◊ Highlights of the Museo Cappella Arciescovile were the several fragments of mosaics and architectural details that give us the opportunity to get a closer look at the superlative workmanship!
Notice that the pieces, especially the gold mosaics, are set unevenly? This is deliberate to emphasize depth and details and in order to catch the light adding to the flickering, glimmering effect and sensation of movement!
Last stop and a must, I wanted to pay my respects to Dante Alighieri, “the Supreme Poet” and Italy’s most revered poet, writer, and philosopher. Built in the 18th century, his remains can be found in this elegant and unpretentious monument.
And now, perhaps you have time to stroll along the attractive side streets and perhaps linger in the the piazzas? (Do keep in mind that, like many cities, shops close in the afternoons so plan accordingly.)
Late afternoon and time to head back and, fortunately, it’s a short walk to the station. What a glorious way to spend the day!
Truly, as they say in Italiano, mozzafiato! Breathtaking!
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◊ Read about some of my other day trips including Pistoia, Arezzo, and Venice.
◊ Watch for my upcoming blog post – Day Trip Travel TipZ!
◊ Need help planning your next trip to Italy? Start with my book, Victoria’s Travel TipZ Italian Style and then let’s get started!
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