Bari is the impressive and attractive capital of the region Puglia (Apulia), the “heel of Italy’s boot”.
Despite my many visits and extensive travel here, I had never been to the capital city and I was very much looking forward to visiting with Ylenia and Michele!
Read more about our wonderful day trip to Bari…
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I was so looking forward to returning to Puglia after two years and to spending time with my fabulous friends and Friends of Victoria, Ylenia and Michele. They are YLTOUR DMC, local destination experts extraordinaire – they are just the best!
We have known each other and been working together for seven years and this, my 10th visit to Puglia, was all the more sweet after all of the COVID delays in travel. My intention during this visit was just to be together with no specific “agenda” than to be back in Lecce with my friends.
In the past I have flown (to Brindisi) but this time I decided to go by train directly to Lecce from Florence. I thoroughly enjoyed the train ride through the countrysides of Tuscany, Campania and the length of Puglia. Staying in historical Lecce was familiar to me and that is one of the pleasures of returning to a place…being comfortable just to be there and stroll the lovely streets…and reuniting with friends!
Day Trip to Bari…
After a wonderful “reunion” including lots of hugs and a few glasses of Primitivo (vino!), tomorrow we are going to take a day trip to Bari and stop in Monopoli on the way back. Why Bari and Monopoli? Well, believe it or not, in all of my visits, I’ve never been to either so it will be a brand new experience and who better to be with than Ylenia and Michele?!
I love the landscape of endless olive trees as we follow the route north along the Adriatic to the capital of Puglia, Bari. I’m not sure why I never made a point of visiting Bari before. Maybe it was some old impression about Bari’s “reputation”…but whatever the reason, they are certainly unfounded! In fact, I found Bari to be a wonderful surprise and absolutely marvelous!
In Case You Didn’t Know…
Bari is the capital of the region of Puglia and has what you could call a “split personality” – a delightful and appealing historical old town as well as an impressive and thriving modern center.
My intention is not to give you a history lesson (there are plenty of other resources for that) but I do find it interesting and enriching to know a bit of background about a place before I visit.
As with all cities that are ports, Bari’s history and personality has always been and is still dominated by the sea and in this case, the Adriatic. And it is also dominated by the succession of rulers and cultures that influenced and characterize not only Bari, but so much of Puglia.
Notes from “The Thinking Traveller”:
“For millennia, Bari has been an busy commercial centre and trading port. It first came to prominence under the Romans who developed it into one of the most important towns on the Adriatic. This status was confirmed in 109AD when Emperor Trajan diverted the existing Via Appia so that it would pass through the city, …elevating Bari to its present status as Puglia’s capital.”
After the fall of the Romans, it was ruled by Goths, Lombards and the Byzantines. In 1071 it came under the rule of the Normans as well as the Hohenstaufens and the Sforza family of Milan. It eventually passed to the kingdom of Naples in 1558 and became part of the Italian kingdom in 1860.
Bari Vecchia (“Old Bari”)
Arriving we park along the lungomare (seafront promenade) that overlooks the port. As we enter the historical heart, we begin our explorations in the labyrinth of narrow meandering passages.
Bundled up (the winds are chilly!), we pause often to just take it all in and, of course, to take photos…lots of photos!
“Bari Vecchia” is often referred to as the “Cuore Pulsante della Citta di Bari” – the beating heart of the city of Bari – and as you meander through the alleyways, you quickly understand why!
As we enter the neighborhood famous for local women sitting in their doorway making fresh orecchiette pasta (the traditional “little ears” of Puglia) every day, we meet Polzia.
“The ingredients: semolina flour, salt, water, hard work…and love!”
Even with the chilly winds, she is busy kneading the dough, making the “logs” and expertly making fresh orecchiette.
She invites us to watch, graciously lets us take photos and videos but she but never stops! When I ask how she learned, she shares that she learned from her nonna when she was seven years old and has been making orecchiette every since!
⇓VIDEOS! Watch Porzia make orecchiette! ⇓
->Watch Porzia make the dough!
Getting a bit lost (or should I say disoriented?) weaving through the vicoli (alleyways) is easy but it adds to the flavor of this place and to unexpected discoveries…
We continue our stroll enjoying the ambiance of local trattorie, shops, cafes, and vendors proudly displaying local goods and amiably exchanging gossip with neighbors. Balconies are adorned with festive holiday decor, flowers, and laundry!
And here and there, a devotional nicchie votive in a neighborhood where traditions run deep.
Bari Vecchia is also where several venerated sites are located and (eventually) we find the Basilica di San Nicola di Bari.
Yes, San Nicola is Saint Nicholas…yes, that Saint Nicholas! Legend says that his remains were brought (stolen?) from what is modern day Turkey in 1087 by Italian sailors to Bari.
Bari became a major point of departure for the Crusades and the enshrined relics made the Basilica an extremely popular destination for pilgrimages and it remains so today.
It’s also because my father’s name was Nicholas that I found this Basilica particularly meaningful…
Modern Bari
We wind our way back to the lungomare overlooking the port and Adriatic and which leads us to modern downtown Bari which, in the space of a short walk, presents the very contemporary side of Bari!
The modern district is extremely attractive with a wide pedestrian zone lined with very chic and stylish designer shops and boutiques.
It’s great fun to “window shop” and see what’s in fashion but now we’re hungry and after passing on several cafes, we find the perfect trattoria for lunch.
After enjoying our delicious pizza and a quick stop at a wonderful shop featuring traditional Pugliese crafts, we stop en route for an evening stroll through the seaside town of Monopoli to enjoy an aperitivo before heading back to Lecce…
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Bari is, without a doubt, worthy of a visit! It’s a proud and handsome city with an appealing blend of the old and the new – something for everyone!
A Few Words About Going with Locals…
When visiting a new city (especially one the size of Bari), navigating and finding your way around can be a bit overwhelming. You want to be sure to include the “highlights” or at least some of them as well as learn about the history of the place.
I have found that going with local destination experts is definitely the optimal way to really enjoy and immerse. How often have you returned from a place and learned/read about something you missed? Yes, I learned the hard way, too. But now, I preach working with local experts/certified guides and I practice what I preach!
When you’re ready to put Puglia on your “places to travel to” in Italy and you really want to immerse and experience the warmth and hospitality of southern Italy, we are ready to design and plan your fabulous and unforgettable vacation in Puglia!
⇓ YOUR next memorable trip to Italy is a CLICK away! ⇓
⇒ Let’s Plan YOUR Visit to the Heel of Italy’s Boot! ⇐
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♥ Read More About My Fabulous Friends of Victoria, Ylenia & Michele!
More Resources:
More about Bari:
https://www.thethinkingtraveller.com/italy/puglia/towns-and-cities-in-puglia/bari
More about Saint Nicholas and how he became “Santa Claus”:
https://www.biography.com/religious-figure/saint-nicholas
https://www.britannica.com/biography/Saint-Nicholas
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