♦ Let’s Visit the Bargello, Italy’s First National Museum! ♦

Preface: As with every historical building, there is a story…a story dating back centuries! They are the “silent” participants in the history and legacy of a place. Occupied, transformed, deserted, renovated, re-imagined…and hopefully survive to share their legacy with us. If only their walls could talk!? They would certainly have a few tales to tell and so it is with the Bargello…

♦ A Little History

The Museo Nazionale del Bargello (National Museum of the Bargello) is located in Florence’s historic Palazzo del Podestà. Established in 1865 as Italy’s first national museum, it is dedicated to Medieval and Renaissance art.

Originally a private Palazzo started in the mid 13th century, the Bargello is one of the oldest public buildings in Florence. When it became the seat of the Podestà (Podestà or “power” in Italian, refers to official judicial/military magistrate in medieval Italian communes) hence it became known as Palazzo del Podestà.

Surviving many natural disasters, in the 16th century it was the seat of the Council of Justice and Magistrates before it was taken over by the Captain of Justice known as the “Bargello” and turned into a city prison. This was an unfortunate transformation inasmuch as the loggia and courtyard as well as the large halls were walled in, plastered over and the mezzanine floors were reconfigured into cells.

It wasn’t until the 1840’s when an important discovery was made – a portrait of Dante and other wall frescoes believed to be painted by Giotto – that triggered the eventual restoration of the Bargello which actually began in 1865.

Today, the commendable restoration coupled with important acquisitions and generous contributions from, among others, the Uffizi and other important collections (including some from the Medici collections as well as suppressed convents and private collectors), make the Bargello a must-see museum in Firenze.

♦ Visiting the Bargello

The Bargello has three floors surrounding a large central courtyard. During my recent visit, there were renovations and some of the rooms/exhibits were closed. However, this didn’t diminish my experience and there was still much to enjoy. I was fortunate to visit before the museum closed (along with all museums in Florence) until December 3rd. And, doubtless, I will return…

A visit to the museum unfolds across the building’s three floors. Starting on the ground floor, along with the Sala di Michelangelo (Michelangelo Room), the ground floor loggia is decorated with coats of arms of the podestà and an impressive gallery with vaulted ceilings and lined with splendid sculptures …

Entering the Sala di Michelangelo (Michelangelo Room), we are met by an elegantly curated exhibit of remarkable sculptures by Michelangelo as well as Cellini, Giambologna, and Bartolomeo Ammannati.

The staircase to the next floor takes us to the Loggia or Verone originally constructed in the early 1300’s and later renovated during the 19th century. The entire space is so aesthetically perfect with its frescoed ceilings and  striking sculptures. 

The largest room in the museum, the glorious Sala di Donatello (Donatello Room), is the perfect setting for some of Donatello’s most famous works including his bronze David, and the ‘Marzocco’ (a majestic lion bearing a shield with the lily, the  coat of arms of Florence).

David

Marzocco with the Coat of Arms of Florence

More Donatello: Atys, a Faun or Mercury…

Verrocchio’s compelling David also in bronze with gilding…

Other works on display include the evocative della Robbia ceramic sculptures.

Visitors have the golden opportunity to experience and admire, up close and personal, these exquisite masterpieces. Taking time to admire, without distractions, their sheer beauty and the genius of the artist is an unforgettably enriching experience.

And there is more. In addition to the Islamic art collection from the Carrand donation (over 2500 paintings and works of decorative art), I especially enjoyed the Sala delle Maioliche Italiane (Italian Ceramics Room) filled with beautifully hand painted porcelain and majolica ware. In a wide array of sizes and shapes, the collection includes both functional and decorative pieces.

Note: There were other displays and there were also several collections that were unavailable for viewing including the chapel with the oldest known portrait of Dante Alighieri and the top floor. A reason to return especially since 2021 marks the 700 year anniversary of Dante’s death.

My goal is to inspire you to visit a museum, any museum! I’m not a historian or art expert but I love sharing my photos and experiences in hopes that you may want to learn more and, perhaps, visit someday as well. 

♦ Resources:
Official website: Museo Nazionale del Bargello
Official guide book: National Museum of the Bargello, Giovanna Gaeta Bertela (Firenze Musei)

♦ All Photos are My Own ©

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♦ Victoria & Friends ♦