Introduction: Yes, I LOVE museums! I can (and do!) spend many, many hours totally captivated and immersed in museums wherever I go.

For me, they are a portal that transports me to the past and history of where I am. I find it fascinating to learn more about how people lived in the past; delve into their heritage, traditions, and customs. And, for me, this knowledge is invaluable for a deeper understanding and appreciation of a place. I gain new insights into their current lifestyle and culture. My visits are enriched immeasurably.

I love researching, taking guided tours and then spending solo time totally engrossed and absorbed immersing at my own pace.

And then, of course, I can share with you! And today, I want to share about one of my favorites in Florence,  Museo dell’Opera di Santa Maria del Fiore…

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Florence is a treasure trove of spectacular art and its museums are not to be missed!

Among them, of course, are the Uffizi and the Accademia. Today, I want to share about another museum that I would love for you to put on your list the next time you visit Firenze!

♦ Museo dell’Opera di Santa Maria del Fiore ♦

The Opera di Santa Maria del Fiore Museum is located behind the apse of Florence Cathedral, in the ancient palazzo that once housed the headquarters and workshop of the Opera, or the Cathedral Works.

These premises once witnessed several Renaissance masters at work including Donatello and Brunelleschi. And, although the courtyard no longer exists in its original form, it is where Michelangelo carved his famous David (now at the Accademia).

Inaugurated in 1891, the purpose of the museum was to house the works of art removed from the cathedral complex over the centuries. The entire museum was completely renovated in 1999 and then remodeled and expanded from 2013 and 2015.

I have had the great pleasure to have visited the museum three times, twice since the recent remodel/expansion. Each visit is a revelation, a privileged experience and glimpse into the extraordinary artistic achievement that flourished in Florence during the Renaissance.

Each visit reveals more and more of its glorious treasures to me. Please join me as we visit some of the many highlights…

♦ Sala del Paradiso ♦
Sala del Paradiso refers to the original ancient square between the cathedral and the Baptistery. The reconstruction of the dismantled original medieval façade, with all of the sculptures in their original positions, is nothing short of spectacular. Statues by Arnolfo di Cambio and his workshop, including the Madonna with Glass Eyes and the Four Evangelists, are literally larger than life.

Also in the Sala del Paradiso are the doors of the Baptistery of San Giovanni. Meticulously restored and displayed for optimal viewing and appreciation, the artists of the Baptistery Doors are:

Andrea Pisano: The South Door (1330-36) is the oldest door and tells stories of the life of St. John the Baptist.

Lorenzo Ghiberti: The North Door ((1403-24) was the first of two doors Ghiberti worked on for the Baptistery. It has 28 reliefs with stories from the life of Christ. It’s hard to believe that Ghiberti was only 18 years old when he received this commission.

Lorenzo Ghiberti: “The Door of Paradise” (1425-52). Commissioned by the Arte di Calimala (cloth merchants guild) tells the story of the Old Testament and was the third and last door to be executed. Mastering new and innovative techniques, the ten panels are extraordinary in their detail and use of low relief and perspective.

Also, surrounding the panels are niches with “statues”, heads, portraits, etc. of biblical figures.

Touch a copy! Yes, you can actually touch and feel the incredible detail of Ghiberti’s “The Creation, Original Sin”.

♦ Galleria del Campanale ♦
Added to the original collection for conservation considerations, other artworks include all of the sculptures of Giotto’s Bell Tower. The sixteen larger-than-life statues of kings, prophets and sibyls were carved by Donatello, di Bartolo, and Pisano (father and son) between 1337 and 1436.

Also from the Bell Tower, and displayed in their original order, is a series of reliefs depicting aspects of daily life and work.

Weaving, farming, medicine, astronomy, labor, trade, the arts, and even a drunken Noah are represented. Started in Andrea Pisano’s workshop in the 14th century, they were completed by Luca della Robbia in the 15th.

♦ Sala delle Cantorie ♦
Known as the Singing Galleries, they were originally designed to hold both organs and singers. The two exquisite choir lofts, created by Donatello (1433-39) and Luca della Robbia (1432-38), are part of the original collection. They both literally come to life with youthful exuberance and the joy of song and dance.

♦ Sala della Maddalena ♦
Donatello’s deeply moving wooden carving, the Penitent Mary Magdalene, is a powerful and poignant depiction of Mary Magdalene. Created in the mid- 1450’s, it is among the other masterpieces brought to the Museum.

Bone thin and shrouded only with her hair, her devoted and mournful expression is profoundly haunting.

♦ Sala del Tesoro ♦
Among the treasures of the Sala del Tesoro and also part of the original collection, is the monumental silver altar dedicated to St. John the Baptist (San Giovanni), patron saint of Florence. It was commissioned by the Arte di Calimala (cloth merchants guild) and then also by the Arte della Lana (wool merchants guild) for the high altar of the baptistery.

Started in 1367 and not completed until over a century later (1483), it required several generations of artists. Over 250 kilograms (approximately 550 pounds) of silver were necessary to make the altar. The detail and intricacy of the masterful workmanship in silver and enamel work is extraordinary.

♦ Tribuna di Michelangelo ♦
Undoubtedly, for me, the most evocative and moving exhibit is Michelangelo’s unfinished Pietà, a marble sculpture that was intended as his own funeral monument.

Nearly 70 years old when when he worked on it, it depicts the disciple Nicodemus gently placing the body of Christ in the arms of his mother. The visage of Nicodemus, a self-portrait, is truly heart-rending in its poignancy.
The sculpture stands alone; a beautiful and befitting tribute to Michelangelo.

Nearby is a resin bust of Nicodemus which you can actually touch! This experience, for me, was positively indescribable – to actually feel his likeness and where Michelangelo’s hand had carved…no words.

♦ Brunelleschi’s Models for the Dome ♦
If you have been to Florence or even seen photos, you know that the panoramic image of the city is dominated by its Duomo. The story of the building the dome is absolutely fascinating and one I encourage you to explore (Brunelleschi’s Dome by Ross King is a terrific read).

Given all that, the museum collection houses wooden models of Brunelleschi’s dome as well as some of the tools, plans and so forth used in its construction which took 18 years (1418 – 36) and remains, even today, a remarkable achievement.

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Photos and mere words seem entirely inadequate when attempting to write about anything that simply defies and transcends description. Marble bas-reliefs, reliquaries, paintings, mosaics, vestments…and so much more are on display in this exceptional, not-to-be-missed museum.

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Sources:

I have borrowed freely from the museum’s brochure and from Timothy Verdon’s outstanding book:
The New Opera del Duomo Museum
Author, Timothy Verdon, Museum Director

Visit their website: https://duomo.firenze.it/it/home/

All photos are my own.

• CLICK HERE For Links to Other Museum Visits You May Enjoy!

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Have you been to Florence? If not, is it on your “wish list”? Do you have a favorite museum or site that you have visited?

Please “Send Me a Postcard” or Comment and Share!

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