♦ The Museum of the Opificio delle Pietre Dure is dedicated to “paintings of stone”: “paintings” designed and created to last forever! ♦
I’m not sure exactly when I first saw “stone paintings”, works in pietre dure. What I do remember is that not only was I astonished by these exquisite masterpieces but also intrigued and curious as to exactly how they were made. Undoubtedly it involved infinite patience and dedication…but I wanted to know more.
Seeing so many exquisite examples of pietre dure recently in museums and palazzi here in Florence fueled my fascination and curiosity and, as it turned out, led to the opportunity to learn more about the creative process firsthand.
By chance, seeing pietre dure works in the windows, a friend and I walked into Scarpelli Mosaici and ran into a good friend who was chatting with Catia Scarpelli. I was introduced, and while admiring their works, expressed my interest in learning more about pietre dure. She graciously agreed that I could return and learn more in order to write a “I LOVE Learning with Locals” blog post.
In order to be more prepared for our meeting, and now that the Museum of the Opaficio delle Pietre Dure was open (it had been closed during COVID), I was finally able to plan a visit! I was anxious and excited to see and learn more about this craft…and to share with you!
To say that my appreciation for these precious pieces, and admiration as well as respect for the talented craftsman who created them deepened, is an understatement.
When you have the pleasure of seeing these creations up close (and I hope you do), I’m sure you will agree that the workmanship is simply magnificent!
♦ What is pietre dure?
Pietre dure literally means “hard rocks” and refers to the use of semi-precious stones in the creation of “splendid handcrafted objects”. These objects are often referred to as ‘commesso’ (plural ‘commessi’) or Florentine mosaics.
In a subsequent blog post (I LOVE Learning with Locals) I will be featuring my recent visit to the Scarpelli Mosaici pietre dure workshop and bottega. I will then share more about the technical aspects of pietre dure (including a few videos).
What I can say (and what is apparent just looking at the photos) is that it is laborious, painstakingly detailed and demands skillful and diligent concentration and attention to detail. And I might add patience!
♦ A brief history of the art of pietre dure
Described as “paintings of stone” is allegedly attributed to Grand Duke Ferdinand. Although the craft was adopted by and flourished in Florence in the 16th century, it was the Romans (ah, those Romans were amazing) who brought colored marble (referred to as polychrome) to Rome to make elaborately decorated pavements, walls, etc. Perhaps you’ve seen some in your travels? In fact, the stones were extremely valuable and even inspired “magical and alchemetric beliefs” revolving around their colors, textures and unchanging nature.
Grand Duke Ferdinando I de’Medici and, of course, the Medici coat of arms
Fast forward a few hundred years during the Baroque period when Florentine mosaics were born with the affinity for “luxurious materials and visual illusion”.
Depicting paintings (this of the Pantheon in Rome) and beautifully naturalistic elements of the arts and nature (e.g. flowers and birds) was very popular.
And… enter the Medici family whose three century reign is especially significant, (to be followed by the Hapsburg-Lorraine and Savoy dynasties) for their support of the ongoing work of the Opaficio.
An exquisite table with a garland of roses and shells in semi-precious stones.
It was Ferdinand I de’Medici (second son of Cosimo I de’Medici) who initiated and instituted “a stable state of order” for the Opaficio when he founded the workshop in 1588 and was not only a generous patron but described as a “wise governor”.
Working exclusively for the Medici court, they were housed in the Uffizi and known as the “Galleria dei Lavori”. His passion, appreciation and patronage was passed on through the generations.
After the eventual decline of the Tuscan Grand Duchy and the demise of the Medici dynasty (1737), the Opaficio depended on the continued support of the Hapsburg-Lorraine who commissioned creations for the Royal Palaces in Vienna and Florence.
Large cabinets were among the most appreciated pieces of furniture between the 16th and 17th centuries…it’s not hard to see why!
More examples of semi-precious stone creations…(“Fame” & “Annunciation”)
It was the unification of the Kingdom of Italy in 1861 that brought a decisive shift. Not only did the workshop no longer enjoy the same level of patronage and was forced to become self-supporting but more independent and private workshops developed making it more difficult for the Opaficio to compete.
Among the last pieces created by the Opaficio… (please wait for the slideshow!)
Today, new pietre dure creations are found only in only five workshops in Florence dedicated to the art.
♦ Visiting the Museum
The Museum actually “came into existence” in the 19th century and was renovated in 1995. It now focuses on restoration, conservation, and preservation of precious works of art starting with Cosimo I de Medici’s passion and patronage and including creations from the King Umberto period.
The collection includes over 600 precious objects in semi-precious stones and polychrome marble.
◊ Ground floor: The ground floor is beautifully curated with stunning displays of pietre dure masterpieces.
⇒ Please wait for the slideshow!
Arranged chronologically and accompanied with excellent descriptions (in Italian and English), the visitor is introduced to and educated about this extraordinary art and techniques as well as the evolution in style and subject matter over the centuries.
Incredible detail! Can you tell the difference between the actual painting (top row) and the “stone painting” (second row)? The third row shows details of the stone painting frame. – fabulous!
◊ Mezzanine: In 1995 a mezzanine dedicated to materials, tools and techniques was added to the Museum. This definitely another dimension to understanding and appreciating the art, the artist and those who appreciated and patronized it.
On the mezzanine, an interesting display of work benches, tools and samples of the semi-precious stones used in pietre dure. Interestingly, the tools haven’t really changed!
In addition to the work benches and samples of some of the stones employed in pietre dure, there is an excellent video that documents the stages and fascinating intricacies of creating a finished piece.
♦◊♦
Although nothing can compare to experiencing these masterpieces in person, I do hope that the photos can somewhat convey their superb artistry.
◊ Visit the Museum:
Museum of the Opificio delle Pietre Dure
Via degli Alfani, 78
Firenze
Home Page
About the Museum
◊ Sources:
Opificio delle Pietre Dure: The Official Guide
◊ Also visit my blog posts about:
Palazzo Pitti (Pitti Palace)
Capella dei Principi (Medici Chapel of the Princes)
Roman Mosaics: Villa del Casale in Sicily
Click here to learn about other Museums I ♥LOVE!♥
Coming SOON: “I LOVE Learning with Locals: A Fascinating Visit with Scarpelli Mosaici”, one of only five remaining workshops still specializing in the art of pietre dure today!
