On this quite special occasion of my second anniversary residing here in Florence…I especially wanted to acknowledge and thank those who have made me feel so welcome and so much at home during my stay here in the San Niccolò neighborhood!
As I have shared, shortly after arriving in October 2020 (yes, in the chaos of COVID!), I honestly had no idea how long or if I would stay. However, as the months unfolded, it became more and more apparent that I wanted to stay longer…and here I am two years later still residing in the cradle of the Renaissance! Incredible, really! And then the unexpected serendipity of finding a warm and friendly community!
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At the base of Piazzale Michelangelo, under the watchful gaze of David, in this traditional Florentine neighborhood (a UNESCO World Heritage Historical Site!), I landed two years ago…and where I am today!
“Located literally on the other side of the Arno river…San Niccolò is the oldest district of Florence and among one of the most beloved historical areas by the Florentines.”
And, for me, this is absolutely true! During the dark pandemic days many businesses were shut down. Some never re-opened, some have changed but the basic character has remained…and it remains as my beloved ‘hood here in this most spectacular city, Firenze!
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In the beginning – At “Your Place in Florence”!
It all started at Palazzo San Niccolò with Francesca and Federico!
Thanks to them and their PSN team, it became “my place in Florence”…a perfect “landing pad” to quarantine, to stay and ease into local life during the unsettling days of the pandemic. And, as it turned out, it became my safe haven where I had the pleasure and privilege to stay for almost 18 months!
♥ Please wait for the slideshow!
Living here “day to day” was a new experience and I honestly don’t know how I would have navigated and found my way without them and their support! And, even more wonderful, we have remained close friends – what a precious gift!
♥ Grazie di cuore, Francesca and Federico & the fabulous Palazzo San Niccolo team!
Palazzo San Niccolò
Via di San Niccolò, 79
www.yourplaceinflorence.com
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Barbara and Simone & Ortofrutta Di Marilli
During lock down, only “essential businesses” were allowed to be open and, thankfully, I could visit Barbara and Simone whose “ortofrutta” was (and still is!) just a few minutes from me! Here, in addition to always finding the freshest seasonal and local produce as well as other staples, I always found a warm welcome!
This neighborhood produce shop has been here since 1921 and has always been a family affair! Opened and run by Simone’s grandfather and then by his father and mother, he is carrying on the family tradition with lovely Barbara by his side. A wonderful collage of family photos on the wall behind the counter – including Simone as a little tyke – is a touching reminder of a family legacy.
Even though their English and my Italian are limited, we manage to communicate (and I do know to point and not touch the goods)! I ask and they patiently teach me the Italian names – cucumber, “cetriolo”, and cherry, “ciliegia”, always trip me up – but, with their help, I keep trying!
Always congenial, always welcoming…
Grazie, Barbara & Simone!
Via di San Niccolò, 65r
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Estela & Gelateria di Filo
Just around the corner, next to Il Rifrullo, is Gelateria di Filo. It’s a sweet gelateria where you can find delicious artigianale gelato and other gelato treats as well as other dairy products (e.g., milk, yogurt) and beverages.
What has made Gelateria di Filo very special to me is Estela. She is the friendly smile behind the counter (and has been here for 12 years)! From Albania, she speaks excellent English and is very patient with my efforts to speak more Italian!
She has been my main source for dairy (milk for my coffee and yogurt) and, of course, when I need a delicious gelato fix! But it’s her warm and genuine smile and always cheerful greetings that are so appreciated and enough of a reason to return often!
Grazie, Estela!
Via S. Miniato, 5
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Michele & Le Bontà di Michele – Specialtà Alimentari
Just a short walk down Via di San Niccolò is Le Bontà di Michele. Also considered “essential”, when you see his sweets and deli case, you will agree. He has also been able to remain open throughout the periods of lock down and we are very grateful!
Michele has had shops in various locations but has been here in San Niccolò for 10 years. Always amiable and accommodating with a friendly smile, he is happy to help you while you choose from his delicious traditional selections. Fresh pizze, parmigiana di melanzane (eggplant parmesan), and arancini are just a few yummies you can take home. A selection of cheeses, meats, wine/beverages, fresh produce and other staples makes Bontà di Michele a neighborhood favorite!
Grazie Michele!
Via di San Niccolò, 19r
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Francesca, Sofia and the B.I.G. Team (Buono. Italiano. Genuino.)
B.I.G. is a “forno, bar, and pasticceria” that, during lock down, renovated and remodeled with wonderful results! Not only will you always be greeted with a warm and friendly smile from Francesca or Sofia, but it’s impossible to walk by and not be tempted by the display and the irresistible aroma of fresh pastries, panini, pizze and other traditional freshly baked goodies to take home and enjoy!
There are plans to expand with a cafe/bar where the menu will include more homemade delights and add another wonderful dining option here in San Niccolò to enjoy local favorites! You might find me there!
Grazie Francesca, Sofia & the B.I.G. team!
Via di San Niccolò, 43/45/47r
www.bigfirenze.it
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Rebecca & the Formaggioteca Team
Right around the corner and actually during the pandemic, San Niccolò had another outstanding foodie option open! Rebecca and her husband opened their cheese shop and wine bar featuring an amazing artigianale selection from Italy and France along with other specially selected delicacies.
Only take away, “asporto”, was allowed during the lock down days but now a full service wine bar, Rebecca and the Formaggioteca team now serve up another delicious aperitivo option in the ‘hood!
Grazie & merci, Rebecca & the Formaggioteca Team!
Via dei Renai, 19
www.formaggiotecaterrior.it
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And I have to include…
Enoteca Fuori Porta
Just a few minutes walk, around the corner, through Porta di San Miniatoand the medieval city walls, on the road towards Piazzale Michelangelo you will find Fuori Porta, my local favorite neighborhood restaurant and wine bar.
It was probably the first restaurant I could visit when I landed two years ago – and even that was only “take away”! However, during those challenging months of lock down restrictions, the kitchen was open and offered delectable local Tuscan dishes to take back to my apartment. (And I did!).
After going a few times (and finally able to eat on their patio and eventually indoors), this is where I love to meet friends. The combination of a consistently delicious menu and wonderful hospitality – what more can you ask for?
Grazie to the entire Fuori Porta Team
Via del Monte alle Croci, 10
www.fuoriporta.it
Il Rifrullo Bistrot
If there’s a version of a “Cheers” bar in San Niccolo, it has to be Il Rifrullo! Open early and closing late, it’s definitely the neighborhood favorite for that perfect cappuccino or faultless Spritz! Always bustling and lively with locals, it’s the perfect “go to” anytime!
Grazie to the entire Il Rifrullo team!
Via di San Niccolò, 57
www.ilrifrullo.com
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There’s so much more to this rione…more places to grab a panino, more patios to enjoy an aperitivo. And, of course, just about everything you need is just down the street or around the corner!!
The Oltrarno is also well known for local artists and artisans, that, fortunately, have been able to survive the shutdown and pandemic days! But that’s another post for another time!
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The “Next Chapter”?
And you may be asking, “what’s next?” Well, do any of us really know what lies ahead? For now…
We set off in one direction but we must be prepared for detours, distractions, and the unexpected! And that “unexpected” is often filled with surprises and serendipities! That is what I have found and why I look ahead with hope and optimism!
Stay tuned, won’t you?
And, by the way, si! I still pinch myself often to be certain this isn’t just a dream!
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More:
♥ About this new “Chapter” and how it unfolded.
♥ Your “Boots on the Ground is HERE!”
♥ Moving to Italy During a Pandemic! My Interview in Italy Magazine!
♥ Read about some of the other locals who have made my stay here so very special!
Maybe it’s your turn? When you’re ready we’re here to help you plan your Italy holiday! “We make the plans, you make the memories”!
Pronto? Ready? Andiamo! Let’s go!
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4 thoughts on “♥A Love Letter & Heartfelt Grazie to My San Niccolò Community ♥”
Do you have a post or can you comment on the price of rentals and the cost of living for several months in Florence?
Christina,
Grazie for reaching out – in fact this is not something I advise or comment on since there are so many variables and factors involved.
My focus is consulting visitors on their specific Italy itineraries.
Victoria
Love that feeling if a neighborhood. It is a wonderful gift to be able to live in Italy. Will see you for another adventure soon!! Congratulations!!
Grazie Ilene! Yes, truly it is a gift & having a “neighborhood” here is so wonderful!
Yes, let’s make a plan!
V.
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