♥ It’s no mystery that I LOVE Montalbano, Sicily, and All Things Sicilian! ♥

Won’t you join me as I go BACK on the trail of the elusive Inspector Montalbano…

Yes, in a few days, I’m returning (with friends) in search of Salvo in Sicily!

Here’s what happened on my last quest!

It’s no mystery that I am and have been an avid fan of Andrea Camilleri’s engaging Sicilian inspector, Commissario Montalbano, since 2007. Then, while visiting Siracusa (Sicily) with a small group, my friend and tour guide pointed out his books as we passed a bookstore window. She asked if I had read the bestsellers and, unfamiliar, I took note and so began my journey with Salvo et al.

I was immediately hooked, proceeded to devour every one of the bestselling Montalbano detective novels and haven’t missed one since…

Camilleri, who didn’t start writing the series until he was almost 70, is amazingly prolific, publishing a new novel annually. The first was debuted in 1994 and the first TV show in 1999. However Stephen Sartarelli’s faithful translations didn’t appear until 2002 after six novels had already been published.

Now, along with millions of other fans, I can’t wait to see what Camilleri has in mind next for Salvo, Livia, and his loyal sidekicks – Catarella, Augello, Fazio, Galluzzo – and the rest of the engaging characters. And, of course, the MHz Choice Italian TV series, starring oh-so-easy-on-the-eyes Luca Zingaretti, has been a mega-hit since 1999. However, the series wasn’t available here until recently…

Waiting impatiently for the DVD’s, finally, they all became available at my local library last year! What a bonanza! As with the books, I couldn’t wait to see every episode. I binged as greedily and happily as Montalbano when he inhales Adelina’s arancini along with his many other local favorites.

That the fictional characters, towns, and settings are brought so faithfully to the screen is wonderful but capturing the essence and tone of the books, which (to me) are uniquely Sicilian in every aspect, is pure genius. From the casting to the sets and locations, from the scripts and direction to the cinematography, everything absolutely embraces and expresses the heart and soul of Camilleri’s characters.

Maybe it’s because my Sicilian roots and DNA relate and maybe it’s because I love Sicily but the plots have become secondary to me. I love the characters, their friendships and relationships. I love the dialogue and the nuances, and I love Inspector Montalbano for his passion, for his contradictions and inner conflicts, for his strengths and weaknesses, and for his unconventional and engaging style…and I love that he always tries to do the right thing…despite the odds.

So, last October, when my good friend and fellow blogger, Margie Miklas, (who is also from Sicilian ancestry) and I were planning a Sicily road trip , searching for Salvo was very high on my list!

A little detective work was required…

⇒ First Clue: To find him you have to know that the fictional Vigàta is actually Porto Empedocles (near Agrigento). It happens to be the real birth place of Camilleri (as well as acclaimed Italian novelist and poet, Luigi Pirandello).

Porto Empedocles (aka Vigàta) has totally embraced Montalbano. In fact, in 2003, they officially changed the city’s name to Porto Empedocles Vigàta!

I had read that they had erected a life-size statue of Montalbano in town center. And he isn’t hard to find…leaning against a lamppost, pensively smoking a cigarette, the statue is true to Camilleri’s description(rather than the actor in the series) but I don’t care! A fan and total groupie, I sneak a hug…

Despite being the fictional Vigàta, no filming takes places here so our search continues…

⇒ Next Clue: Maybe he’s at the police station or visiting the questore? Well, the fictional Vigàta scenes (only the exterior shots, all interior shots are filmed in Rome) are actually filmed in the lovely Baroque town of Scicli.

And the “police station” isn’t hard to find! As I approach and start to climb the steps I realize…  Wait, his car isn’t parked out front?! He must be on a case?

Looking across to the bar where he often goes with Mimi and Fazio, no sign there either… What to do? We do what Montalbano would probably do, we have a cannolo and caffè!

⇒ Next Clue: Perhaps he’s meeting longtime girlfriend, Livia, who might be arriving for a visit from Genoa? He always meets her at the bus stop… Or, perhaps, they’re enjoying a romantic dinner together nearby at his favorite ristorante? Ah, but those scenes, along with many other exterior  Vigàta shots, take place in Ragusa Ilba.

Off we go to Ragusa Ilba, another Baroque gem in the Val di Noto. After climbing and walking and searching…no sign of Salvo or Livia…discouraged but not defeated…there’s only one more possibility…

⇒ Next Clue: He must be home?! But Salvo’s fictional Marinella is actually Punta Seca where he lives by the sea…

Again, his fame has been embraced by locals. It isn’t difficult to find his famous seaside “residence”.Now, we are beyond excited! So much happens here! Enjoying the meals that Adelina has left for him, dinners with Livia on the terrace (usually interrupted), those long swims…

But, again, no sign of Salvo. The terrace is empty. He’s not sipping an espresso in his robe or pouring a glass of wine as the sun sets…not shouting on the phone, not gazing out to sea and musing over the latest case…ah, peccato…

And no sign as I look out to sea…I see swimmers…is that you? No…not this time. I guess I’ll have to wait for the next episode or the next visit in hopes of, at least, a sighting of the elusive Inspector!

Will we be successful? Stay tuned and follow us through seductive Sicily!

Learn MORE:

Only in Sicily!

Visit Lovely Scicli

Andrea Camilleri on Montalbano

Suggested Reading/Viewing:

The Inspector Montalbano Mystery Series by Andrea Camilleri

Inspector Montalbano starring Luca Zingaretti
Young Montalbano starring Michael Riondino

Post Script! In fall of 2019 with a lovely group of guests, we revisited many of the Montalbano filming locations. Since, the series has become an even bigger sensation in the USA and around the world but we have lost Andrea Camilleri. We wait to learn Montalbano’s fate…